To say that Cape Cod has many Italian restaurants to choose from might be quite an understatement.  Pizza parlors and spaghetti houses, red-checkered table cloths and while linen, family-friendly  and upscale, they are all represented in virtually every town.  Do you know anyone who doesn't like Italian food?  I'm not sure I do.

    I found a little place just down the road from my house that has become one of my favorites, it happens to be Italian, and it's the Villa Roma, on Route 28 in West Harwich.  You will be hard-pressed to find a better value anywhere.
   
    It's small (seats 60, including a small lounge area) and intimate, with both comfortable booths and tables with comfortable chairs, dark wood panels, breadsticks and fresh flowers on every table.  Service is friendly and warm, and our servers were very enthusiastic about the food, always a good sign.  A tangy dip was offered to accompany the breadsticks, and a small plate of extra virgin olive oil, with fresh herbs, olives and marinated mushrooms, was also delivered upon our arrival.  The menu offers what it calls "Classic Homestyle Italian Cooking," and it is that and more.

    Owner/Chef Douglas Morrissey (yes, he's an Irishman, and yes, he cooks Italian) opened Villa Roma four years ago this week.  His menu is simple and straightforward, offering fresh soups and salads, and the typical parmesans, marsalas, picattas, lasagna, scampi and a New York Sirloin.  It is the care taken in preparation, though, and the quality of the raw materials, that make a meal at his place many cuts above average.

    The minestrone was flavorful and hearty, and tasted fresh-made.  We enjoyed our cup as an excellent starter.  The house salad is a mix of field greens, tomato, olives, red onion and fresh croutons, with a good house vinaigrette.  The antipasto came with everything you would expect, including assorted Italian meats and cheeses, roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts and olives.  All entrees are served with a choice of soup or salad, and a warm loaf of crusty bread.

    On my first visit, I ordered off the menu, as the server recommended the grilled swordfish.  It was quite obviously fresh, perfectly grilled and still very moist inside, and was served with  fresh tomato, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil.  Sauteed vegetables were al dente, and the accompanying capellini had been lightly tossed with garlic, cheese and olive oil.  A simple meal, but it was turned out very well.

    The marsala was as equally well prepared and presented.  Chicken breasts, pounded thin, lightly dusted in seasoned flour, quickly sauteed with mushrooms and garlic, the pan deglazed with marsala wine and a little brown sauce, and finished with a dollop of whole butter for richness . . . it could not have been improved upon.  On a return visit, we sampled the chicken parmesan and found it to our liking as well.  Actually, the portion was a little too generous, and we were very happy to have it for lunch the next day.

    The meatballs are made in house with several meats (beef, veal and pork) and are offered as an appetizer course (2 to the order), or as an entree with pasta and red sauce.  The lasagna is a meat and spinach version, with several kinds of cheeses, and the portions are large.

    This is simple food, homestyle in preparation, but artfully presented.  Food is cooked to order, and only until just done:  the vegetables are al dente, so they have good texture and fresh taste; pasta is cooked al dente, also; and, the chef shows an experienced hand at saute and sauces.  Good ingredients and good flavors are hard to beat.  I must tell you about a dessert, too, though, as one of my dinner guests is still talking about it.

    Everyone seems to offer cheesecake on dessert menus.  My first visit was lucky enough to coincide with a fresh cheesecake coming out of the oven only 45 minutes before we arrived.  Our waitress told us she was not sure she could convince the chef to serve it, since it was still warm.  We pleaded and prevailed.  It was tall, it was just barely set, it was accompanied by strawberries and aged balsamic vinegar, and it was heaven.  The cake was almost chiffon-like, light in texture, still a little warm, and it was the best cheesecake I have been served in a restaurant.  May you be lucky enough to arrive while it's still warm, too.

    There's a sign on the outside of the building as you enter that should be mentioned.  It reads:  "Our clientele anticipate an adult environment at the Villa Roma.  Thus, we have no childrens' menu, no child's portions, and no pizza.  $6 split plage charge."  Morrissey makes no apologies for his policy, and states he simply wants his guests to know beforehand what to expect in his dining room.

    The soups, salads and appetizers range from $3 to $9.95, and I've already mentioned that a choice of soup or salad is included with your entree.  The entrees range from $9.95 (simple pasta with a good house marinara) to $21.95 (a 14 oz New York Sirloin), with most in the $12.95 - $17.95 range.  Value is one of the criteria we use in our rating system, and Villa Roma's value score will be hard to beat.



    Cape Dining Out considers Villa Roma to be a mid-range restaurant, just a little above family-friendly, although it is that, as well.  For its good service, excellent food and great value, Villa Roma has earned a 3.5 Cods Rating with a very solid 43 out of 50.  We recommend you visit Villa Roma soon and help it celebrate its fourth birthday.

If you go . . . . .