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View Article  THIS WEEK'S COLUMN: EARLY BIRDS ON A REVISIT

Early birds.  We see the advertisements and the signs everywhere for them, designed to fill tables at times when they might otherwise be empty.  You'll find reduced portion sizes of regular menu items, or perhaps menu additions, and maybe they'll be accompanied by a salad, or even a salad and dessert.  Those menu additions are oftentimes pasta, chicken or pork dishes.  It's unlikely you'll find a filet mignon, or rack of lamb, lobster or foie gras offered for an early bird special.    I remember being asked once when I was cooking professionally why regular menu items couldn't be priced ...   more »

View Article  THIS WEEK'S REVIEW: PHOENECIA CAFE, ORLEANS, MA

When I spent time in Nigeria twenty years ago, there was a Lebanese baker with a shop just around the corner from my house. I would make a meat filling of ground goat, lots of garlic, onions, tomatoes, mint and other herbs, and bring it to him early in the day. He would wrap the filling in a terrific, savory dough and bake individual pies, little galettes, enough in number to last a couple of days. I'd pick them up later in the day, and would also bring home some manaqish (dough baked with Lebanese herbs and spices), and baklava. ...   more »

View Article  THIS WEEK'S REVIEW: GRACIE'S TABLE, DENNIS, MA

Tapa.  Plural, tapas.  Defined as "any of various small, savory Spanish dishes, often served as a snack or with other tapas as a meal.  Spain is replete with tapas bars, local gathering spots where one can enjoy a glass of sherry or sangria, feast on little snacks, and review the events of the day with friends.  I know of one very good place in Waltham, Massachusetts, Solea Restaurant and Tapas Bar, with a tapas menu of some 40 items, but that's a long way to drive. 

I've good news for tapas lovers, though.  Today, you ...   more »

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