The dictionary defines a tavern as: “a building with a bar that is licensed to sell alcoholic drinks,” synonymous with a “tap house.” Cape Dining Out found a tavern in Sandwich, but it offered a lot more than alcoholic drinks, and we don't think anyone would refer to it as a tap house. It's on Route 6A in East Sandwich, and it's called The Bee-Hive Tavern.


    Our first experience at The Bee-Hive Tavern was eleven years ago, but it has changed hands since those days, now under the ownership of the Davies Family. More recently, our visits were for dinner, although The Bee-Hive serves lunch every day as well. There's a feeling of warmth when you enter the foyer. The bar is to the left, small and intimate, with seven or eight stools and a few tables. The walls are wood, dark stained, and the lighting is comfortable. Walls are adorned with, as you might guess, bee hives and framed old photographs.


    The dining room has all booths for seating, comfortable and sufficiently private for conversations that don't travel to your neighbors. Posts at each booth allow for coats and hats. Each booth has a light suspended from the ceiling to illuminate, but if you are 5' 10” or shorter, it has a sharp glare at eye level that can become annoying after a while. I know this might seem a little whiney, but it did detract from the dining experience for my guest.


    The menu is extensive, and includes the usual offerings of seafood, poultry and meat you expect to find on a tavern menu of casual dining. Appetizers includ shrimp cocktail, priced by the piece, soups (all made in house, and more on that anon), chowder, and a hummus/tabouleh/babaganoush platter, among others. Those familiar with these columns (see my review of The Phoenecia Cafe in the Restaurant Review section) will remember that I both cooked and ate middle-eastern food while I was overseas, and so when my eyes found the platter of hummus, tabouleh and babaganoush on the menu, the choice of starters was easy. It was attractively served with Syrian bread (pita) and lavasch crackers. I must say, though, I was disappointed with two of the three. The hummus, pureed chick peas (garbanzo beans), was very dry and bland, and would have benefitted greatly from more lemon juice and a lot more garlic. I like mine, also, with a drizzle of high quality extra virgin olive oil. The tabouleh, a salad of bulgar wheat, tomato, onion and parsley, also, would have benefitted greatly from a lot more parsley and lemon juice, and a little extra virgin olive oil, for it, too, was flat and dry. The babaganoush (pureed, roasted eggplant with garlic, tomato and olive oil) was good, though, and saved this starter from being a total loss.


    On our most recent visit, the soup of the evening helped greatly in redeeming the starter choices. All soups are made in house and fresh, and this night's offering was a chicken barley soup with fresh sage. It was thick and hearty and filled with chicken, and it was great. I associate tavern food somewhat with comfort food, food that when eaten envelops you in a warm and fuzzy feeling reminiscent of an earlier time in your life. This version of chicken soup did that for me, and I would have been quite satisfied that evening with a bowl size portion, along with a couple of the quite excellent, fresh-baked dill rolls. However, I wouldn't have had enough material to write this review, so I had to eat on. Don't miss my point, though . . . this soup really was great.


    The house salad is a generous offering that included fresh mixed greens, tomato, cucumber, red onion, grated carrot and alfalfa sprouts. All salad dressings are made in-house, and include a creamy garlic, balsamic vinaigrette, Dijon vinaigrette, a fat free honey Dijon, and a caesar. We especially liked the creamy garlic, rich and redolent with garlic, and the balsamic vinaigrette. The salad course was accompanied by those fresh-baked, still warm dill rolls already mentioned but worth mentioning again as being quite excellent.


    The Bee-Hive's March Madness meal promotion presented three entrees each night, accompanied by soup or chowder, and a dessert, for $12.95. The offerings on my most recent visit included twin loin lamb chops, roast chicken, and baked Atlantic salmon. The lamb chops were cooked to the requested temperature (medium rare), and were good. Loin chops are not especially big or meaty, generally, which is why they are usually served in pairs. These were nicely grilled, moist and flavorful, and served with the customary mint jelly. Mashed potato and pureed butternut squash helped fill out the plate, both in very generous portions. I noticed the food, generally, is underseasoned at The Bee-Hive, so both the potato and squash benefitted from butter, salt and pepper. With so much salt in the air (this is Cape Cod, after all, an island in the ocean), we tend to develop a salt insensitivity, and food needs to be seasoned a little more liberally. This is my theory, anyway, for what it's worth.


    The roast duckling, ordered from the regular menu, was half a duck, semi-boneless, and roasted perfectly so that the meat was moist, tender and very flavorful. It was served with a not especially memorable cherry sauce that nonetheless did not detract from the very good duck. Mashed potato and butternut squash were the side dishes, and again, needed to be seasoned. I wanted to leave room for dessert, so I brought half the duck home for a next day snack, and it was just as moist and flavorful the next day as I enjoyed it with my breakfast.


    Earlier in this column I mentioned comfort food. For those readers who still might need help understanding this term, let me recite the dessert menu I was being forced to choose from: grapenut custard pudding, gingerbread, cinnamon apple crisp, bumbleberry crisp, honey and almond ice cream (called Bee-Sting ice cream on the menu), chocolate cake with melted chocolate truffle sauce (Boardwalk Mud Cake on the menu), and house-made vanilla ice cream rolled in toasted coconut and served with a melba sauce. I say forced to choose because there wasn't an item on it I didn't want to order. I came to the conclusion that nobody would not like anything on this dessert list. (I think that's grammatically correct).


    The grapenut custard was, sadly though, a disappointment. It was mostly custard, with virtually no grapenuts, and the custard needed more vanilla extract as it was somewhat bland. In all fairness, the absence of grapenuts may simply have been a serving apportionment, not enough getting scooped up for my cup. However, the custard was lacking in flavor, although the texture and degree of doneness was as it should have been.


    The cherry crisp, thankfully, did the trick and was a keeper. The crust was mildly spiced with cinnamon, and included oatmeal. It was served warm, with some freshly whipped cream, and it was terrific. To make matters even better, it was the default dessert with the March Madness special offering, so it was included in the $12.95 special.


    The menu includes salads that it refers to as “Dinner Size,” and they are certainly that. The Bee-Hive take on the Salad Niçoise starts with a base of fresh mixed greens, builds with tomatoes, blanched green beans, slices of steamed potato, chopped hard boiled egg, olives, and is topped with a piece of grilled tuna. The menu recommends it be served with the Dijon vinaigrette, and this did seem like the right choice. It is generous enough for two, and (here they are again) with the fresh baked dill rolls makes a very good meal out.


    You'll also find burgers and sandwiches on the menu, along with some children's offerings, too. They're the usual and expected items, so I won't recite the list. The Bee-Hive Tavern is open for lunch and dinner 7 days, and the luncheon menu includes the same burgers, sandwiches and salads. It is also open for breakfast on Sundays, and that menu is quite extensive, with eggs of all varieties, pancakes, french toast, omelets and specialty breakfast sandwiches.


    If I had limited myself to a bowl of that delicious soup, two or three of those rolls, and a large bowl of the cherry crisp, I think I'd have been comforted for about two weeks. However, a review must present the entire picture, encompass the whole dining experience. The Bee-Hive prices are very reasonable, and with the children's menu, burgers, sandwiches and salads offered, it could be considered a family-friendly place. Our last visit was a $51 tab (starters, entrees, desserts, glass of wine), perhaps a little above the family friendly threshhold, though. Cape Dining Out has decided to consider The Bee-Hive Tavern in the medium range category (see our Restaurant Rating Policy, right sidebar menu).


    Our experiences were mixed. Some food fell short of the mark, while other dishes shined. The latter tells us the kitchen knows what it is doing, but simply doesn't do it all the time. The service was well above average, warm and friendly, engaging and quite pleasant. On the most recent visit, our server told us she had been working there for 11 years, and I have always considered waitstaff longevity to indicate a well-run establishment and a steady clientele, all of which speaks well of The Bee-Hive Tavern. With a score of 34 out of 50 in the Cape Dining Out rating system, The Bee-Hive Tavern earns 2.5 Cod.




  
If you go . . . . .

    The Bee-Hive Tavern
           406 Route 6A, East Sandwich, MA
           508-833-1184
           Handicap Accessible
           Lunch & Dinner, Breakfast on Sundays
           Casual Dress