Fresh ingredients just out of the garden, at the height of their flavor, tossed with a dressing designed to bring out that freshness and flavor . . . . isn't that what a salad is meant to be? I've an idea for you, but you'll have to be adventurous to assemble it, as some of the components most likely don't grace your table often, if ever. Please believe me, though, when I tell you this is worth the effort and the daring it will take.

    Let's talk about the effort for a moment. One ingredient is rather labor intensive - - the fava bean. A member of the pea family and one of the oldest cultivated plants, the fava comes in long, thick pods with a white blanket-like padding inside to protect the pretty beans they carry.

    Fava beans need to be shelled (removed from their pods). To open the pods, just pull on the stem at the top to unzip the string down either side of the pod; gently push the pod open between your thumb and forefingers, and pop the beans out.

    Cook the shelled beans in a large saucepan in plenty of boiling water until just tender, about 3 to 5 minutes depending on the size of the bean. Drain well and rinse with cold water to cool. Using the tip of a knife or your thumbnail, slit the translucent skin covering the bean, peel off and discard. Now you've arrived at the edible part.

    The rest of the work is simple blanching – dropping the ingredients into boiling water, bring back to a boil and remove immediately to a large bowl of water and ice. This cold bath will stop the cooking quickly, and also help preserve the brilliant green color that makes this salad a standout on the plate.

For Two Generous Salads

Ingredients (about ½ cup of each)

blanched fava beans
blanched asparagus, cut on the bias into 1” pieces
blanched fresh peas
pea shoots (a couple of good handfuls will do)
blanched spring onions
sauteed mushrooms (button will do, but for a real treat, try King Oyster)
blanched fiddlehead ferns

Dressing:

2 tb fresh lemon juice
1 tb combined chopped chives, dill and chervil
1 tb minced garlic
1 tb Dijon mustard
½ cup very good quality extra virgin olive oil
2 tsp white truffle oil
salt and pepper

Add the first four ingredients of the dressing together in a bowl and whisk in the olive oil in a steady stream until the dressing has emulsified. Whisk in the white truffle oil, taste and adjust with salt and pepper.

Toss all of the vegetables with the dressing until evenly coated, and compose the salad on the plates. Garnish the salad with fresh shaved parmeggiano cheese.

    I served this salad at two of my professional gigs, a restaurant on Cape Cod, and a hotel in Maine, both to a very good reception. These ingredients are fresh right now, springtime in New England, and really are at the height of their flavor. Now is the time to have this salad, so don't wait. I know, I know - - it sounds like a lot of work. Just suck it up, though, and remember that good food is hard work.

    Springtime brings new ingredients to the kitchen straight from the garden. I'm thinking something a little sweet today, and although it's been a little pricey at the market, I'm thinking rhubarb in particular. I loved strawberry-rhubarb pie when I was young, but I've developed an allergy to strawberries. I needed to find something to do with rhubarb, then, and thought I'd share one recipe with you.

    First, the prep work associated with rhubarb. The spine has to come off, and it's fairly easy to remove. With the edge of your paring knife, pinch the end of the rhubarb stock, red or concave side out, between it and your thumb, and gently pull down the length of the rhubarb stalk. You'll find the spine coming right off, just as it does for celery stalks as well. That's it.

    Cut the rhubarb into pieces of about 1 inch, maybe a little longer. I'd say 1 lb will do it for this recipe. Gather a cinnamon stick, a couple of star anise, a dash of a very good (aged) balsamic vinegar, a ½ teaspoon of vanilla extract, a ½ cup of granulated sugar, a cup of white wine, and a sauce pan. Put all of the ingredients into the pan, and add enough cold water to cover the rhubarb generously.

    Bring this to a boil, and then reduce the heat to a simmer and continue cooking until the water liquid has reduced and the rhubarb has softened. It might even become just a little mushy, with some of the pieces retaining their shape and tender integrity.

    I have one obvious serving suggestion for this, and one not so obvious. While it's still warm, put some on a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and you will find out what rhubarb was meant for when created. That's the obvious use.

    At one of my restaurant assignments, I paired it with black bass. I scored the skin side of a piece of the bass, seasoned it with salt and pepper, seared it skin side first in a very hot skillet, and then finished it in a very hot oven. This was placed on top of a generous spoonful of the rhubarb in the middle of the plate, and then drizzled with a reduction of the balsamic vinegar (almost syrupy). Some steamed and then sauteed baby carrots and fresh asparagus tips completed this dish.

    I know - - rhubarb and black bass? It worked, and it was really good. If you're not that adventurous, though, just stick with the warm rhubarb and ice cream. Who could question that?